We have returned home safely, if not a little sore in the head, having spent our last evening tucking into juicy steaks, delicious red wine and far too many vodkas! It was great fun hanging out in the midnight sun with the hip n’groovie crowd in funky Reykjavik. We also managed a quick dip in the Blue Lagoon en-route to the airport, soaking up the healing minerals and having a good wash!
There was a wonderful welcoming home committee to meet us off the plane – James’s wife Nicky and their two sons Fabian and Felix, Chloe’s mother and Conny’s parents.. beaming smiles and all pretty thankful to see us safe and with no missing body parts – just rugged hairy faces (apart from Chloe who thankfully had recovered from her blistered mouth).
There are too many adjectives to describe the wonder and amazement of Greenland, her vast frozen ice-cap, majestic mountains and peaceful fjords, as well as the charming Inuit people who have lived there for thousands of years. As a team, we came home feeling hugely privileged to have witnessed first-hand, such a beautiful and awe-inspiring country – a country so few will ever see in their lifetime.
“Far North, hidden behind barriers of pack ice are lands that hold one spellbound. Gigantic imaginary gates, with hinges set in the horizon, seem to guard these lands. Slowly the gates swing open and one enters another world where men are insignificant amid the awesome immensity of lonely mountains, fjords and glaciers” (Louise Boyd, photographer 1935)
Although we sadly never reached the ice-cap station this time, due to unusually heavy snowfall, it gave us the opportunity to see more of the country, visit the fjord where August Courtauld and the British Arctic Air Route set up base camp for a year, as well as spending four days on the island of Isortoq; a tiny Inuit settlement perched on a hill, surrounded by frozen sea ice, icebergs and fjords. Being able to sit back and observe the true Inuit way of life was a real treat and a very different atmosphere to Tasiilaq, the largest settlement on the east coast.
As a Team we had a great time with lots of teasing and laughter. Spending three days holed up in a tent gave us the chance to form a strong bond and we definitely got to know each others little idiosyncrasies.
We can’t thank our sponsors enough for ALL their support with such fantastic clothing, food, health and nutritional advice, personal training, physiotherapy, flights etc. We also loved all our messages on the ice and would like to say a huge “THANK YOU” to all our friends and family for their never-ending support and encouragement, giving us the spirit of determination during the high’s and especially during the low’s.
Here’s to the next adventure …..
Ice Cap Station Arctic Challenge Team ‘09
The team spent the bank holiday weekend learning and observing the community rituals of the Inuit population in Isotorq. The team were able to watch how they hunt, cook and the methods they use to survive in the harsh Greenland environment. Chloe said that is was fascinating to observe and that they all felt very privileged to have been able to live amongst such an amazing community.
Today they are leaving Greenland behind and making their way back to Iceland before flying home to London tomorrow evening. They will be staying in Reykjavik for the evening and are looking forward to painting the town red after receiving some good tips on local bars from another expedition team.
They want to send a massive thank you to all their sponsors whose amazing support made the trip possible. All their sponsors can be found under the sponsors page on this site and each service/product provided has been invaluable to the expedition. We are not able to mention them all in the blog due to space constraints however to mention a few, RAB and Finisterre provided exceptional clothing that kept the team warm in the harsh snowstorms. Expedition foods provided their tasty food - they now have a list of top favourites so if anyone is looking for advice on the best tasting freeze dried food you know where to come. Animus and Mule Bars provided additional food supplements that kept the team energised through out. As the mule bars were so effective in providing an energy boost, Chloe decided to create a new tag line for them - “If you want a kick up the ass, refuel with a Mule bar” ( you can tell they spent a long time stuck in the tent!).
They would also like to thank everyone again for all their messages of support and entertainment, they were invaluable for keeping the team spirit up through out the expedition. The team are on their normal phones from tonight if anyone would like to contact them before their return.
Although the expedition has come to an end and the daily blogs will be no more, keep your eyes on this space as Chloe will be writing a final blog on their return, as they have lots more stories and experiences to share that they were not able to convey in detail on the Sat phone.
Wednesday 20th May - Coordinates:65.32.872N, 38.58.538W
After their 1st night in 15 days under a solid roof, the team woke to mild temperatures and light snow and are looking to spend the day exploring some of the wonders of Isotorq - the settlement they have dubbed as the ‘one horse wonder town’. The sound track of the town is church bells, thousands of howling dogs and Micheal Jackson ( the only album available to play in the service house).
As today is a bank holiday in the region the local shop is closed , meaning they are on their freeze dried expedition food until the morning. They are hoping to attend the local church service at 10am this morning (the bells were ringing in the back ground when they phoned) and depending on weather, go out with Mikkel on his boat in the afternoon in search of seeing some of the local wildlife.
Due to it being a Bank holiday weekend in the UK, this blog will not be updated again until Tuesday 26th, but rest assured the team will be having a fantastic time fishing, learning Inuit, enjoying the warmth and breathing a sigh of relief that they are able to sit back on a comfortable chair at last!
Tuesday 19th - Coordinates: 65.40.078N, 38.46.143W, Altitude: 435m, Temperatures: 2-7 degrees C, Wind Chill -2.9 , Barometer reading: 962.0.3.
Yesterday the team made their way towards August’s base camp, sadly due to thinning ice and a landscape hiding deep crevasses, they had to stop their approach 6km from the base camp coordinates. However, with beautifully skies, they were able to see clearly across the Fjord to the place where August’s team were based for a year and Chloe said it was a magical experience.
They woke today (Weds 20th) to a complete whiteout, but were still able to make their gradual decent into Isotorq. Conny and Chloe took the sledge reins and spent the morning dog skiing across the ice, whilst James kept to the trusted human skiing method. As the temperatures have been warming up, the icecap surface has become mushy and wet, and at one point Chloe said it was like water-skiing when the dogs had to pull them through knee deep slush. When approaching the lip of the ice cap they caught sight of a beautiful frozen fjord and tumbling glaciers reflecting crystal blues and greys with embedded glistening black rocks. The landscape was dramatic and allowed for a fantastic decent off the ice cap.
At the very edge, the decent became steeper and as the dogs increased in speed, Chloe and Conny went back to being on foot and sinking to their knees in deep slush walked down the steep slope. James’s advanced skiing skills allowed him to ski for the whole decent. At the bottom, they arrived at the ocean, where the surreal sight of Mikkel’s speedboat was parked up awaiting them. They loaded their gear into the boat and bombed it round to the small island of Isotorq ( inhabitants 80 people).
On arrival in Isotorq they had to load all of their kit onto children’s plastic sledges and attempt to pull them up a steep mushy hill towards the settlement. The settlement was seemingly deserted, until the local children got wind of their arrival and ran to try to help them pull the sledges up hill. The team spent the night in the local service house - which Chloe admitted took them a while to locate as each multicoloured building looked exactly the same!
They had the service house to themselves and were able to spend a relaxing evening in the warm and dry - although still will no running water to shower.
Mikkel, who lives in Isortoq, went back home and Dines stayed at Mikkel’s house for the evening.
Monday 18th - Coordinates: 65.57.583N, 39.17.385W, Traveled : 20Km, Altitude: 1394m, Temperatures: -4.8 degrees C, Wind Chill -3.5 , Barometer reading: 856.3, Time skiing: 10.45am - 4.30pm
Yesterday the team had another great day skiing on crisp firm snow. The journey was predominantly on a slight gradient downhill and this, combined with the harder surface allowed them to glide almost the whole day. The skies were again clear and the sun brought the warmest temperatures they have experienced since they started. They set up camp almost at the edge of the ice cap and were able to take in the incredible view of the mountains on their right and the vast sprawling frozen ocean ahead of them; the only distinction between the edge of the ice cap and the ocean being a small colour different in the endless white. With the sun setting and their guides away doing other tasks, they spent a calm evening just the three of them, looking out at the ocean landscape dotted with Icebergs as far as the eye could see.
Today they are hoping to make it to August’s Basecamp which is a further 20km trek and to continue the fast pace across the now firm snowy surface.
The morning is bright and clear with the team, the sun is shining and there is a mild wind. With colder temperatures through the night again, the surface is crisp and hard meaning they will be able to have another day of fast paced skiing and if arms allow some more dog water skiing. They are hoping to cover another 20/25Km during the day, and if the weather stays clear to have another calm night in camp.
Over the next few days they are making their way back to Isotorq, where, on arrival, they are hoping to be able to start a 3 day return journey to August’s base camp at the beginning of next week.
Sat 16th -Coordinates: 66:14:658N, 39:23:580W, Traveled : 12Km, Altitude: 1677m, Temperature: 5 degrees C, Wind chill -1.1 , Barometer reading: 834.5, Time skiing: 12pm -6pm.
Saturday’s weather was great with clear blue sunny skies, but the warm temperatures melting the deep fresh snow made the teams journey very hard going. After 12kms of slogging through the wet heavy snow, the whole team were extremely tired and glad to set up camp to rest for the night.
They woke on Sunday for an early start and were able to leave camp by 9.30am. Temperatures had dropped over night and the morning was overcast, meaning the snow, which had hardened over night, stayed crisp and firm for the morning skiing. The harder surface made it quicker going for the dogs and easier for the team to glide on their skis so they made great progress, covering 20km by 3.30pm. Chloe had a go at sledge skiing, by holding onto a rope at the back of the Sledge she was able to let the dogs momentum pull her along - although less tough on the legs she said it was very hard going on the arms! The sun emerged later in the afternoon and the team stopped early to set up camp in order to enjoy a long, sunny relaxing evening.
Sunday 17th -Coordinates: 66:08:407N, 39:19:673W, Traveled : 20Km, Altitude: 1579m, Temperatures: -1.6 degrees C, Wind Chill -6 , Barometer reading: 836.2, Time skiing: 9:30am - 3.30pm
After 2.5hrs of skiing yesterday, the team successfully reached their guide Dines, who was relieved to see them after 3 days alone. The team were delighted to be reunited with their hot food again and Chloe with her sleeping bag and clothes!
However, after a lengthy discussion with the team, Dines and Mikkel were of the opinion that due to the extraordinary amount of fresh snow that has fallen in the last 3 days (approx 4 foot), it would now be impossible for the dog teams to progress to the Ice Cap Station safely.
Chloe says ” It has been a difficult and emotional day, realising that my dream to reach the Ice Cap Station will not happen this time. However, in the true spirit of an adventurer and with revived energy and enthusiasm, I look to discover other significant places where August’s spirit stirs. We are now aiming to trek a further 80km across the icecap towards Isortaq in search of August’s base camp and to go to the foot of Bug Bear Bank”
You could hear in Chloe’s voice the disappointment and frustration, but also the real sense of determination to continue to explore and set a new goal. Over the next few days, with no pressure from time constraints, the team will be able to ski at their own pace and really take in the incredible environment that surrounds them.
Out on the ice today, the weather has finally turned around and there are crystal clear blue skies with a light mild wind. Frustratingly for the team, communication with Dines has proved difficult and they have been unable to determine if he is on the move towards them. After discussions with Mikkel and the team at Destination East Greenland, they have decided that they will start to move back towards Dines’s last coordinates and hopefully meet him in the middle. As the snow is still very soft and deep, the 6km will be both physically and mentally hard for all the team. Although it is a big psychological blow having to back track across the ice, the team’s spirits are still high and even after being stuck in camp for 3 days they claim to all still be sane!
Over the last few days huddled in camp, they have planned world domination, told a multitude of jokes (which Chloe would not repeat for publishing :() and have had their spirits kept alive by all your lovely messages of support. Please keep the messages coming.
Chloe’s quote of the day: “going to the loo is proving interesting when you sink up to your crutch in the snow!”
They are going to call in with their coordinates later today or 1st thing tomorrow.
Sadly, due to the weather conditions, Dines was not able to move from his tent yesterday which meant the team had to stay put for the whole day. They are in good spirits and had a great day cozied together around the stove in the boys tent; having long chats putting the world to right, learning Inuit from Mikkel, teaching Mikkel English and reading the selection of educational novels they have with them - James is enlightening the team with his knowledge acquired from his book about Nelson, Conny has gone back to the classics and is reading The Tale of Two Cities by Dickens, and Chloe, who’s kit is all on Dines’s sledge, has stolen Conny’s new Bond book for some light entertainment.
As Chloe’s kit bags are on Dines’s sledge, she is currently without washbag, sleeping bag and additional clothing so, over night she snuggled up in between the boys for warmth and has borrowed layers to wear during the day. Thankfully, however to keep her sane and safe, she does have with her however her lucky mascot, Simeon the Seal, who she purchased.
With the bulk of the food on Dines’s sledge, they are down to eating puddings and peanuts until he arrives.
Although, they had a great rest day, they are all hoping that Dines will be able to make it to them today so they can push forward. They have woken to another foot of snowfall ( 3 feet over the last few days), white out conditions, a mild wind and temperatures of -5 degrees C.
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